Day 27: Sweetly Sings the Donkey

I woke up early this morning; I had a long day ahead of me. I packed up, helped clean up the kitchen a little, and said goodbye to Diane. I then headed, in a great rush, out the door. I had to get a receiver for mobile internet, come back to the apartment to get my stuff, and get to the station before my 10:45 train. The first phone store I went to, as I expected, didn't open until 10. I knew there was no way I'd make my train in time, so I hopped on a bus and headed back to the apartment, considering myself SOL. However, on the bus, I saw another mobile phone company. I got off at the next stop, backtracked to the store, and found that it opened at 9:30, which was in five minutes. Amazing. When it opened, I was the first customer helped. I was so relieved, and began the process of buying mobile internet. Then, he told me he needed my passport; Italy requires foreigners to show a passport to issue a new phone number. I panicked; I clearly didn't have time to go back and forth to get my passport before my train, and I begged the guy to let it slide, to no avail. I tore apart my wallet, and as I was about to accept defeat, I found a photocopy of my passport in my wallet. Every once in a while, I'm smarter than I think. He accepted it, finished setting me up, and left. I found a shortcut back to the apartment, grabbed my stuff, and was out by 10.

When I got en route to the station, I realized that a cab was worth it in all this heat and with these big bags. I hailed one, got in, and had nice conversation with the cabby. When we got there, he first asked for an extra euro for the luggage, and then realized he had no change, so he just took all my coins, which amounted to much less than what the meter said. I lucked out. I bought my ticket, ate some breakfast, and got on the train. Luckily, it was air conditioned, and the two hours went by quickly.

Michael, my new workaway host for the next few days, picked me up from the station in his blue Honda Jazz. He is 60, British (though his mom is Italian, he spent around 20 years in Hawaii, and has been living in Italy for about twenty years), but a very young 60, with a ponytail, fit body, and pants covered in paint. He is a musician and a massage therapist, and has a small farm around his home where he is learning about organic farming and permaculture by doing.

We talked the whole way to the grocery store, a long trip for food. We talked about workaway, massage, my journey here, etc. After shopping (we bought almost exclusively produce, everything organic), we went to his house. It is up a dirt road, and looks out on a valley and the rolling Apennine hills. It is right on the border between Umbria and Tuscany. As we drove up, the donkey brayed at us. The house is four hundred years old; and was originally lived in by sharecropping families. Now, it is a beautiful home, with hammocks on the porches, lots of instruments, and great vibes.

There is a young Italian couple working here too, and they had prepared lunch while we were out. We sat down for lunch on the front porch where all our meals are eaten. The Italians speak great English, and have helped me with some Italian as well. After lunch, we had a siesta; it is usually too hot from three to six to work productively.

After writing yesterday's blog, I laid down in the hammock, and napped. It felt great. When I work up, I helped the Italians work on draining the pool, and getting all the leaves out of it. Though there were enough salamanders and frogs that needed rescuing to employ a small country, there wasn't really enough work for all of us. So I headed to the treehouse like structure, that Michael is going to turn into a massage studio. I cleaned it out, measured the last few floorboards that need cutting, and swept it out.

By the time that was done, the Italians had headed in to shower, so I went and scooped some more leaves. Michael met me up there, and, during the beautiful sunset, walked me around, showing me what was on the little farm, and what he planned on doing in the future. Now, he has a small orchard, a horse, a donkey, and a large garden.

After a shower, I went out to the porch. Michael and I talked for a long time, while lying on hammocks, about American politics and the state of everything. The whole place is like a symphony; there are so many insects, ambhibians and birds singing. This place is very alive. There are lizards climbing all over the walls, snakes in the bamboo, and lots of plants.

We made dinner; a salad with a homemade tofu dressing, roasted red peppers, and bread. We weren't done with dinner until about midnight, at which point I read, and fell asleep.

Day 26: Lazy in Rome

We met Mary at the coffee bar, and spent a long time there talking. It was cooler today, so being outside was a bit nicer. We went back to the apartment, and I was going to go walk around Rome, but I wasn't feeling very inspired. I spent a long time resting, trying to figure out next moves, etc. By two thirty, I was ready to see some sights.

I hopped a bus that took me across the river, and spent the next few hours exploring the streets. I happened upon Gelato del Teatro, one of the the best gelaterias in Rome, that Alan had mentioned yesterday. I got the chocolate with wine and chocolate with orange. It was amazing. You can see them in the back making the gelato. Yum. I explored, taking photos and wandering. I took the tram to get back; I always enjoy foreign public transportation, so it was a treat, even though it was packed.

When I returned, I gave Diane another massage. Not long after, she went out to a dinner party. I had expected to eat some food and see Rome; but by the time I was done cooking an egg, I was exhausted, and was asleep before 11.

Day 25: Adventures

This morning began with coffee and a croissant at the coffee bar down the road, this time accompanied by Diane's friend Mary and her husband, David. After breakfast, we went on a photo journey. We didn't get far, however, due to the heat. We did go to a hotel around the corner. Behind the reception of this little hotel, is a glass door, which leads to roman caves. When they redid the hotel, they decided to do a little digging, and found caves filled with large artifacts, which they left there. It was surreal and beautiful.

We left the hotel, walked to the market to buy some ingredients for lunch, and headed back to the apartment. Once there, we made a wonderful salad and pasta with vegetables. After lunch, we sat around and talked for a long time.

When Mary left, I gave Diane a massage. Afterwards, we went on a little photo adventure; the setting sun cast beautiful light on Rome. We shot the ruins, the streets, and the fountains. We had dinner at an amazing pizzeria. After dinner, I spent some time in the apartment, talking to people and getting some things in order. I then headed out to do some night photography. Jazz in my ears, I walked through the streets of Rome watching and taking photos. It was lonely, exciting, and beautiful.

Day 24: Wandering

I woke up this morning and stayed in bed reading for a long time. Diane and I then went out for some breakfast and to do some errands. Breakfast was at the coffee bar down the street that Diane attends daily; and when our bus came before she paid, she waved to indicate, I'll pay tomorrow. We got on the bus towards the Spanish Steps. From there, we walked to the gallery where her photos are being shown and sold. The show is coming down, so they talked about which should stay, which are in the process of being sold, etc. We took two of the photos to the framer around the corner so they could switch which one was framed.

We then went to the hotel down the street. Recently, the hotel bought one of Diane's pieces for each room, and several for the hallways. It was beautiful. We went down the street to the big shopping area; today started the summer sale in Rome. We bought some shoes, and then I headed back to the house. I meandered; taking some photos, avoiding big streets, and getting lost. After buying some fruit and vegetables and at the local stand, I returned to the apartment. Elliot, who's 18, was home with his friend Leo. Elliot made a delicious lunch, and we ate and watched Germany destroy Argentina. After the game, they left for the beach, and I took a nap.

When I woke up, I grabbed my camera and went out. The Coliseum is just down the road, so I headed in that direction. When I got there, however, I had no interest in taking photos of the sites. Instead, I wanted to take photos of the tourists. I walked around, mostly taking photos of tourists posing for pictures. When I got tired, I headed back. Julian, the older son, was home with his friend Tom.

We hung around, and I skyped some people, and then it was time for the next game. I made a salad, and ate dinner and watched the game. When it was over, I went to bed.

Day 24: J'aurai du quitter centreville et m'installer in Italia

The first time I woke up this morning was at four am, when my family left for Geneva. I fell right back asleep, and woke up again at 7:30. I showered, grabbed some breakfast in the hotel, and ran some errands. First I bought some more credit for my phone; I was told I can only buy credit in France, so hopefully I have enough now for the next four weeks. Then, I bought a fresh, hot baguette for the road. My last errand was returning the gear I took by accident from the bike shop yesterday.

I got back to the hotel, grabbed my bags, and checked out. I walked to the train station, and only got a little lost. I got on the bus to Courmayeur, and settled in. On the bus, I began my Italian study, I have tapes and an accompanying book. I'm having a lot of fun with it, if not learning a ton of Italian. I waited for a little at the Courmayeur station, then got on the bus to Aosta. After the almost two hour ride, I got off in Aosta. There, I bought my tickets to Rome, and had two hours to kill before my first train. I walked around, went to some roman ruins, and then parked myself in a park and read for 45 minutes. I then got on the train.

It was hot, and didn't get to my second stop on time. It got in 17 minutes late, and I only had fifteen minutes between when I was supposed to arrive and my next train, so I missed my train. I changed my tickets, and sat outside and people-watched for the next 45 minutes. I got on the next hot train, and took that to Milano.

In Milano I got straight on my next train, a fast train direct to Rome. It was also hot, but a nice time to read, study Italian, and rest. When I got to Rome, I called my cousins, and walked twenty minutes to their apartment. Diane is a photographer and teaches cooking classes too, and Alan is a tour guide; last week he took Ben Stiller and family on a tour, and Diane did a cooking class with them, in the apartment I'm in now. We ate a delicious dinner Diane put together while talking about photography, what brought me here, and the touring business. I showered, and now we're watching the end of the Ghana Uruguay game.

Day 23: MFDS

We slept in late this morning. Over breakfast, we discussed the day's activities. We decided to split up; the boys go biking and the girls take a hike. My dad and I headed to the closest bike shop, and rented downhill mountain bikes. These bikes have full suspension, disc breaks, and huge front shocks. With the rental came a motorcycle-like helmet, knee pads and elbow pads. Though we laughed at the level of protection at the time, we did not know what was in store.

The ride to the ski lift from the shop was only a few hundred meters long, but it was straight uphill. The huge front suspension and low seat make the bikes ill fit for any uphill, not to mention this huge grade. I made it up the hill in a low gear, my dad got off and walked most of the way. We bought all-day passes for the ski lifts around town, and waited for the next cabin to come. My dad went in first, and I took the next cabin. It was an impossibly hot ride up the mountain; one kilometer of vertical elevation.

We got to the top, got out, and spent some time up there. We had a perfect view of Mont Blanc, and of all the hang gliders soaring through the air. After asking for directions, we suited up, took a photo, and prepared for our descent.

I went first. Our ride was down a very steep, very loosely packed gravel road. Standing on the pedals, with my butt behind the seat, I began slowly to gain confidence, and soon figured out that speed was the key to an easy and fun ride. I eased myself off the breaks, though still too dependent, and rushed down, yelping, for about five minutes. There I stopped to wait for my dad and to get a photo of him coming down the mountain. I waited about seven minutes and began to worry. Just as I was about to speed down the mountain so I could come back up and find him (the hill was way too steep to consider going back up it) he came around the bend at a snail's pace. He had been at the top fussing with the gear, he had walked some, and the rest he had taken very slowly. After coaxing him to speed up, I continued down.

Five switchbacks later I stopped again to wait for him. I waited here for more than ten minutes. He finally came walking down the hill. He had fallen just after we met, and was all shook up. He told me it was too hard, and he was going to walk down, and he'd meet me after my second run. The next section was the steepest and loosest, and I went down the whole way loudly singing MFDS and Don't Stop Me Now. I only had a few awkward encounters with hikers annoyed with my obnoxiousness, I was luckily moving fast enough that I didn't have to interact at all.

After passing a pile of steel beams, the road smoothed out a bit, and I went really fast here, as there was less to fear. The last little bit got steep again, and then I was back at the lift. I took a little break, drank some water, and refilled my bottle, and then got back on the lift. I started back down the mountain, a little more confident, and much quieter. But, when I got back to the bottom, I hadn't passed my dad at all. So I figured he had taken a shortcut, because surely he'd wait at the lift for me if he got down before me. I waited for fifteen minutes, and then tried to call him, but I didn't have my cell with me. I asked around, got a lot of no's, and the phones I was allowed to use couldn't call his American cell phone. I went down the hill to the bike shop, but it was closed, like everything else in France from noon to two. I walked up the hill this time, deciding he was either fine and back at the hotel, or was somewhere on the mountain, and I had time for another run.

This was my fastest run of the day; one kilometer in less than fifteen minutes. I barely stopped, and knew all the routes I wanted to take. It was awesome. I went back to the hotel, grabbed my cell, and called my dad.
He had gotten down before I did, and went to the bike store, and then went to find my mom and sister. When I called, he headed back to the hotel apologetically, and we grabbed some lunch. After lunch, we went to bike shop to ask for a new route. He pointed us to a trail he thought was bikeable up the same lift. We went up, and found the trail. It was singletrack, and had very short runs before switchbacks, read: not suitable for us to bike it. So, we were going to do the same run again. I convinced my dad to try again. He went down the first little part, decided it wasn't for him, and headed back up to take the lift down. I went down, a bit slower this time. A helicopter deafened me, and I looked up to see a huge steel piece dangling from the helicopter right over my head, and I figured out that it was an old lift piece, being moved to the pile I had seen before. I kept biking, and just before I got to the pile, another helicopter came with a dangling piece. I stopped for the show, my back up against the mountain, scared of being taken out by the helicopter blades.

It came down to eye level with me, a guy unhooked the ski part, and the helicopter went back up the hill. After taking some pictures of the action, I got back on the bike and rode the rest of the way down. I gave back the stuff to the shop, and went to the hotel. My sister and I went swimming for a little in the hotel's small pool, and then relaxed in the room til dinner. We walked around town for a long time looking for a place to eat, guided by my mom's guidebook this time. The first place it lead us was too fancy, so we backtracked and ate at a good Italian restaurant, whetting my palate for the Italian experience I'm about to have.

After dinner, we played cards, packed up, and went to bed.

Day 22: Argentieres to Chamonix

Today's hike was spectacular. We ate a delicious breakfast with fresh croissants, packed up, and began our hike. Not surprisingly, it began with an ascent. It was fairly long, but not too steep. The forest then opened up into meadow, with amazing views of Mont Blanc. We reached a split in the trail, and after deliberation, decided to go the long and more interesting way.

Naomi and I ran up ahead. Along the way, we saw an Ibex. We got off the trail to get closer, and stopped when we were about five meters away. We watched them scratch themselves, sleep, and salute Mont Blanc. My parents passed us as we were watching the Ibex, and we followed soon after.

We ate lunch by the side of a small alpine lake, with the mountains reflected in the freezing cold water. Lunch was French bread, cheese, and saucisson. After lunch, my mom didn't want to do the last twenty minutes up to the bigger lake, Lac Blanc, so we split up. It was a bit of a scramble, with some snow, some rocks, and a ladder. Naomi and I bounded ahead while my dad stopped to talk to a family from Pennsylvania.

We met at the top. The lake had a sheet of ice covering almost the whole thing, with bits of deep blue water showing through. There are two lakes separated by a small land mass, and we walked over some snow to see the second, larger lake. There has been, on the surface of a lot of the snow here, a deep red pigment. I just read that it is caused by an algae called protococcus nivalis, one of the oldest life forms known. We had all kinds of conjectures, from blood to mineral residue to pollen.

After admiring the frozen lake with the mountains in the background, we began our descent to Chamonix. The rain clouds were darkening and collecting, so we went as quickly as we could. As we neared the ski lift we were to take down, we saw and heard huge construction machines. They are building an artificial pond to make snow with, and the construction disrupted our path. We had to hop across boulders to regain the path, and found my mom walking up the hill just ahead. We met her at the top, and sat in the shade, cooling down and relaxing our muscles. My dad got two beers, a really good light local beer, and a really strange local green beer.

As the clouds rolled in, we decided we should get down the mountain before the thunder shut down the lift. We got in the cabin that was to take us down, with about eight other people. It zoomed down the mountain, much too fast for my mom and sister's tastes, but it sure was efficient. When we were down we waited for the bus for a half hour, found a cab who said he would come back in ten, and eight minutes later, we caught the bus that finally came.

After showering, reading email, and unpacking a bit, we went downstairs for dinner. We sat down, saw the menu, and stood right back up, the prices and selections much to extreme for our tired tastes. I grabbed my 2004 France guide book, and we headed to its first suggestion. The sign outside the restaurant told us it was closed until July 2, so we turned around and headed to the next suggested restaurant. We found the family we met on the mountain, and invited them to dinner with us. They agreed, and we went to the little street where our restaurant was. It no longer existed, so we picked another, called Munchie. We had a lovely dinner; Nicole is twelve and Alex is nine, so Naomi had a friend and I had Alex, who helped to fill the Nature Camps void I'm feeling. It was the parent's anniversary, too. The restaurant had an interesting and exciting menu, a nice break from all the hams and cheese and bread we've been eating. To add to the excitement, Naomi got locked in the bathroom temporarily. Her face, however, was not as red as I was hoping when she finally got out; she kept her cool well.

After dinner we walked around town a little, and saw the most substantial dog I've ever seen. We got back to the hotel and fell asleep in the hot hotel room.